Patterning an enclosure
Marine Fabricator | May 2010
By Mark Hood
At Hood Canvas, we always precut our pattern blanks to rough size, including any center lines.
Most custom shops T-pin the enclosure pattern to the bottom half of the zipper on the bimini. We prefer to stay-stitch the bottom half of the zippers onto the top of the pattern blanks and make adjustments to the pattern back at the shop and out of the wind. You simply have to zip on all the patterns as soon as you get to the boat and pull tight against any breeze. It makes the patterning process go quickly and easily.
Start by taking your pattern blanks for the two sides and stay-stitch the zippers from the bimini onto the top of the pattern in a straight line. Be sure to mark them port and starboard. Now take the forward and aft pattern blanks that have the curve on them from the “Flip Trace” technique (discussed in the previous article in the March/April issue). You need to stay-stitch those zippers onto the tops of the pattern blanks following the curves.
Now, on the boat with the patterns all zipped on, start with the forward pattern, where it comes down on an angle and tucks under the windshield, creating some difficult angles to deal with. You might want to add some double-stick seam tape to the top edge of the windshield to hold the top half of the pattern in place while dealing with the bottom half.
A couple of things should be noted about this process: first, this method can be used to correct imperfect angles on the forward and aft patterns, as well; second, this method works equally well for hard-top enclosures.
We stitch our keder tape on like we do for zippers, but on a straight line for all four sides and correct angles as necessary.
Note: The large binder seen in the Jan/Feb Shop Techniques article on fabricating enclosures is available for purchase at www.hoodcanvas.com. Mark Hood is available for private consultation and training.
Mark Hood is owner of Hood Canvas in Merrimac, Mass., mark@hoodcanvas.com.
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A Hood aft deck salon top and enclosure on the 120-foot yacht "Freedom" at the Newport Shipyard, Newport, R.I. -
Make tucks along entire bottom edge of pattern, taking out extra material between fasteners. Make hash marks with permanent marker across each side of tucks at bottom of pattern. Mark forward edge of windshield and fasteners. Forward pattern is done. -
Back at the shop, lay the pattern flat. -
Using a marker and a ruler, draw two lines for each set of hash marks, forming a point at the edge of the windshield. -
With scissors, cut up one side of each dart on marker line. Using a pin at the top as a pivot, overlap pattern so hash marks line up on bottom and tape. Do this for all darts and put belly back in pattern so it fits exact contour of windshield. -
Make lettered hash marks along the marker line that follows the edge of the windshield. Cut on the same line with scissors. -
You have two pattern pieces laying flat again with seam along edge of windshield. You also have alignment marks for seaming two pieces together. -
We can now pattern the sides. As mentioned previously, the zippers are sewn on straight at the top of the pattern. If you have a very straight edge along the sides of the bimini, you might not need to make any adjustments to the pattern. -
Unfortunately, this is not usually the case and in most cases we end up making two adjustment darts in the pattern at the points where the two mid-frame bows touch the sides. -
The steps to make these long darts are pretty much the same as in the previous six figures. The only difference is that the darts end at the bottom of the sewn-on zipper, and a relief cut needs to be made at the top of each dart. -
Top edge of enclosure is now not straight, but at the angle it needs to fit correctly. A couple things should be noted: first, this method can correct imperfect angles on forward and aft patterns; second, this method works for hard-top enclosures too.
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Comments are the opinion of individual posters and do not reflect the views of Marine Fabricator or Industrial Fabrics Association International.
2:45 pm CDT
Which Clear Vinyl was used
We are glad you like the articles. We used 40 GA Strataglass in those enclosure pieces, but any good press polished clear sheet vinyl will work.
12:48 pm CDT
Which "glass" product was used?
First, I must comment on the GREAT information your articles have provided me. I'm in the middle of creating an enclosure for our 35' Bayliner and have been asked to work on a friend's 45' Jefferson trawler next. Thanks for sharing!
We're discussing which product to use on the trawler's aft deck salon and pilothouse - all "glass" roll-up windows existing - replace with same or consider sheets that swing up?
Thanks for your comment -
10:04 am CDT
Red Push Pins
You can get them at Bainbridge International 1-800-273-9053 Also, cover the tops of your tables with Homosott available at any good lumber yard. Wrap with a HD vinyl and sheet rock screw to your layout tables and the pins will push in with ease.
6:34 pm CDT
Juat a question
Those red pins in the 4th photo, where are they from? I need a supplier for them. I've tried others and they just bend and break too easily. Thanks
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