I have been sewing for the better part of 52 years. My dad started a custom canvas company in 1963, when I was a teenager, and I eventually went to work with him. That is where I really started learning about sewing machines.

Over time I learned how to use and repair them. Machine repair has become a dying art, so it’s important that shop owners and operators know their machines and how they work. Manufacturers are more in tune with the needs of owners and operators, but we still need to do our own due diligence.

I thought I might give some background on the sewing machines that I have used over the years, what to look for when considering a new machine, maintenance and pros and cons.

Varying machine models

The machines we were using when I started doing custom canvas work, Singer^® 111W155s, were heavy-duty, single-needle, walking-foot machines—without reverse feed. Their “foot” lift was antiquated compared to today’s machines, but they did a good job.

The next machines we purchased were Adler 67s. They were a walking-needle, walking-foot machine, with a reverse lever and a high knee lift. Another big improvement was very little down time for repairs and maintenance.

While using both of these models, I learned how to “time” them and make necessary repairs to keep them functioning.

As years went on, we bought various models of Consew^® Zig-Zag machines for sail making, various other brands like Juki 1541s and newer Singer machines that had an adjustable pressor foot height with a knob on the front. This option was very handy when sewing various thicknesses.

Learning your machine

All these machines had different features that aided manufacturing and production in many ways. This allowed our shop to reverse stitch, zigzag stitch, measure foot height for material thickness, etc. With each new machine, we had to educate ourselves on operation, adjustment, maintenance and repair. Some came with helpful literature, some not as much.

As the company grew, we tried several brands to find the ones best suited for most of our needs. We did experience challenges when we were training new hires—several were intimidated by the friction clutches and the speed. As you know, you need to pump the machine pedal in order to control the speed; if you push it straight down, it takes off at full speed! That does get your attention and not always in a good way. 

Safety was also a concern, so with each new model we had to consider what was available to protect our operators and train them, as well as learning ourselves.

Speed and control also became a concern when we started sewing polycarbonate. Sewing too fast heated the needle and caused the thread to break. 

Building relationships

Whichever brand(s) you choose to purchase for your sewing machines, it’s important to build relationships with the company, or companies, who manufacture them. This can be especially helpful when you need assistance with a model and it contributes to the machine’s long-term potential in your shop.

Consider my relationship with Adler as an example—I’m speaking from my personal experience with their machines, rather than providing an official endorsement from Advanced Textiles Association (ATA). Around 2010, while I was at the Advanced Textiles Expo (called the IFAI Expo at the time) in Orlando, I stopped by the Adler booth. That’s where I became familiar with the company’s M series 867; this machine has a deep throat, adjustable pressor foot height and—best of all—an adjustable speed. 

From what I could see, the machine will sew through anything, at any speed setting, and still have 100 percent power. It was perfect for all applications of material and not intimidating to machine operators, as they can sew as slow or fast as they need to suit their project.

I also appreciate that Adler, knowing their customer base, has done another special thing for the shop owner/machine operator. Their machines come with a repair and settings manual that a novice can understand—no service guy needed. This is critical because there are not many of them left.

That said, you seldom need to adjust. For example, the hook snaps back into time by pushing against the hook while turning the hand wheel. And, like most newer machines, it is self-lubricating from a reservoir.

Choosing the right machine and learning it can be a challenge, but the time spent yields significant rewards in your shop’s efficiency. Don’t be afraid to ask questions and do a little research. 

William Bransford has been sewing for over 50 years. He studied as a machinist in trade school, served in the U.S. Navy and ran a custom canvas, OEM and factory replacement canvas business first started by his father.

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SIDEBAR: Questions to ask while shopping

When selecting a machine, there are many factors to consider:

• What is the throat depth of the machine? This is especially important to ask when sewing polycarbonate.
• What is the thickness of the material(s) you will be sewing?
• What is the presser foot lift clearance?
• What is the speed regulation, clutch driver or variable speed motor?
• How many different feet styles are available?
• How easy is it to service yourself or get service support from the manufacturer?
• On older and used machines, are parts available?